Monday morning arrived with a surprise. We all survived a night in Bruno’s Motel! Cynthia and Linda had to admit that it wasn’t as bad as they thought it might be, but it’s only fair to note that Cynthia didn’t see the large colonies of mold lurking in the shower.
After enjoying breakfast at Bruno’s, we were on the road again (this is when Cynthia and Linda would break into song). The plan today was to take a very circuitous and scenic route back to Reno. After traveling west out of Gerlach for a few miles we turned onto a gravel road and headed roughly south along the west side of the Smoke Creek Desert. Even though it has it’s own name, the Smoke Creek Desert is geographically connected to the more famous Black Rock Desert that is north and east of the Smoke Creek Desert.
For the next 30 miles we followed the old stagecoach route that linked the few widely scattered ranches located wherever there was water. Surprisingly, a few of these ranches still exist today but, sadly, most are gone or are being slowly consumed by the desert. Along the way Linda and Larry picked up a cache located on a bridge spanning Smoke Creek. It’s hard to imagine that all the water flowing under the bridge will soon disappear when it reaches the thirsty playa less than a mile from here.
Toward the southern end of the Smoke Creek Desert the road passes through Bonham Ranch, an old stage station. To the left of the road is Round Hole Springs, a large deep spring about 30 feet wide and to the right (behind the old ranch house) is an artesian well. As the water flows out of the ground and onto the playa it transforms the otherwise barren desert into an oasis of life and color.
Terraced Hills and Sand Pass separate the Smoke Creek Desert to the north from Pyramid Lake to the south. Ten thousand or so years ago they were part of one huge inland sea known as Lahontan. Today, Pyramid Lake is all that remains of this inland sea, a victim of global warming that occurred long before white men came to this continent.
Just south of Sand Pass we turned west onto Fish Springs Road, another dry dusty gravel road. Thirty miles later we grabbed a cache near The Widow Maker, a steep hill climb into the Fort Sage Mountains. The plan now was to take a dirt road north to Herlong and then west on pavement to Hwy 395. That was the plan but sometimes plans have a way of turning to dust and blowing away just like the road we took to Herlong. At the end of the road with pavement in sight we came to a locked gate and there was no way around it. Crap! And just to rub salt in our wound, the gate had an old rusty handmade sign indicating that beyond the sign was a gated community. Har Har, very funny.
Our only option was to turn around and head south several miles to Laver Crossing Road and Hwy 395. Then north on 395 to where we should have intersected 395. Only a 16-mile detour and we were already behind schedule and to make matters worse we ran into road construction and lost even more time. After much teeth gnashing we turned off the highway, picked up some food and, of course, a cache.



By now we were out of time and had to get back to Reno so we bailed on the “plan” and descended down the Doyle Grade Road to…you guessed it…Doyle. From there we headed to Reno picking up a few caches along the way. Once in Reno, we stopped at Chili’s, swapped pictures and ate some food. After lunch we all headed west on I-80 to pick up one last cache before Linda and Larry took off for Roseville and we came home and collapsed with a grin on our faces.
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